Vegan Stir-Fried Tomato & “Egg” 番茄炒腐竹

A vegan version of the classic Chinese stir-fried tomato and egg 番茄炒蛋, using yuba (tofu skin). The ultimate comfort dish paired with rice.

Tomato and egg stir-fry is the first Chinese dish I learned to make as a kid. It’s so simple that it’s become a running joke among college students that even if you don’t know how to cook anything else, you can probably make this. The combination is a classic for a reason: the tomatoes with their juicy sweetness and acidity, paired with fluffy fried eggs, cooked down until rich and saucy and spooned over rice— just perfect on a weekday night. Like shakshuka, this dish is comforting and unassuming, a one-pot dish that can make for a satisfying meal.

When I became vegan four years ago I thought I’d have to give up this dish forever, but last May I was in China, traveling through the Jiangsu province with my brothers, and I came across a vegan version served at a restaurant tucked into a shopping mall in Suzhou. The restaurant used stir-fried yuba (tofu skin) in place of the eggs, and it was a revelation. I scarfed it down, feeling oddly emotional, gratified to eat something that been missing from my life for years. Back in my kitchen, I tried to make my own version inspired by that dish, and I can say it’s just as satisfying as the original.

What do you use for eggs in a vegan version?

I use a combination of traditional Chinese ingredients— yuba (also called 腐竹, or 豆包 in Taiwan) and fried gluten puffs (面筋) simmered with the tomatoes to substitute for the texture, flavor, and protein of scrambled eggs.

Yuba and wheat gluten have been used for thousands of years in vegetarian Chinese cooking in Buddhist temples and home kitchens, and I much prefer these whole foods to processed modern inventions like TVP and egg replacements like JustEgg. I have two chapters dedicated to yuba and the different types of seitan/gluten in my upcoming cookbook, so think of this as a preview!

Yuba is tofu skin, literally the thin layer of skin that forms on top of soy milk when it cools. Unlike tofu, yuba is pliable and webby and quite stretchy, with a protein content similar to egg white. It’s a bit confusing because yuba comes in many forms— flat sheets, dried into brittle sticks, or tied into knots— but for this recipe you want the soft, flexible bundles of yuba (labeled 鲜腐竹), usually frozen and available in the freezer section in Asian supermarkets in the U.S. I buy fresh yuba (豆包) here in Taiwan, but frozen yuba is identical after it’s thawed. Don’t substitute the hard, dehydrated fuzhu sticks— they remain dense even after soaking and don’t result in the fluffy texture we’re looking for.

I also added fried gluten puffs (mian jin qiu, 面筋球): these are bits of wheat gluten that are fried into puffy, hollow balls. They are sold either dried or canned, soaked in a marinade/broth. When you cook them, they absorb the flavors of the sauce and become delightfully chewy and juicy, with a richness that adds to the savoriness of the dish. They’re commonly used in Taiwanese and Chinese cooking (usually simmered in hotpot), and are available in any Asian supermarket.

I prefer to use the dried puffs (on the left), since canned gluten usually comes pre-flavored in a marinade.

You can leave these out if you’re gluten-intolerant— the recipe relies mostly on the yuba, but the fried gluten puffs provide just that extra bit of chewiness and richness. In combination, they are spot-on substitutes for the texture of scrambled egg white and egg yolk.

Ingredients in this Dish:

• 3 medium tomatoes
• 4 oz yuba, fresh or frozen
• Fried gluten puffs, either 2 cups dried or one 3.5 oz can of canned Chinese gluten (mian jin)
• Cooking oil
• Garlic, peeled and sliced.
• Scallion, white part and green parts separate
• Light soy sauce. For umami and saltiness.
• Water.
• Sugar + salt. Season to taste.
• Ketchup. See notes.

How to Make:

1. Prepare the ingredients. Soak frozen yuba to thaw until softened. Unfold and tear into pieces, about 2-3 inches long. Soak the dried gluten puffs in warm water, or drain if using canned. Cut the tomatoes into bite-sized pieces (I like to blanch the tomatoes first to peel them, see Notes).
2. Fry the yuba “eggs”. Heat wok or pan over medium heat and add 2 tablespoon cooking oil. Swirl around to coat surface, and heat until oil surface is shimmering. Add yuba and fry until puffy and golden brown, like scrambled eggs.  Remove from wok.

3. Stir-fry all ingredients. Heat the wok again and add garlic and white parts of scallion, and fry until aromatic. Add chopped tomatoes and cook for 45 seconds while stirring, then add soy sauce, water, sugar, and ketchup. When the sauce has come to a simmer, add gluten puffs and fried yuba, then reduce to low heat and simmer for 2 minutes to allow them to soak up the flavors. Taste and adjust flavors, adding more salt or soy sauce for saltiness, sugar for sweetness, ketchup for acidity. If desired, you can add starch slurry at the end to thicken the sauce and make it glossy; otherwise, let the sauce simply burble away until it’s reduced to your liking.

4. Serve. Ladle into a serving bowl, scatter on chopped scallions (and a drizzle of sesame oil if you’re feeling it), grab a bowl of rice and start eating!

Notes/Tips:

• Don’t skimp on the oil for this dish! Eggs have a richness due to the fat content of the yolk, but yuba is almost entirely protein, so using enough oil while frying will ensure it’s closer to the consistency of scrambled eggs.
• I peel my tomatoes first (quick dip in boiling water and then a shock in cold water and the peel comes right off); most restaurants will do this for the smoothest texture and to avoid bits of tomato peel in the dish, but this is totally optional. For the fastest home-style version just chop the whole tomatoes into bite-sized pieces and you’re good to go.  
• Adding ketchup is a secret trick of Chinese cooks— the extra oomph of sweetness with the ketchup intensifies the savoriness and enhances the flavor of the fresh tomatoes.
• The tomatoes will release water while cooking, but I prefer the dish a bit more saucy so I will add some extra liquid to the pan.

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