豆腐乳 | dòu fù rǔ

What is fermented tofu?

To make this funky and salty condiment, you incubate white cubes of firm tofu until it develops mold, then ferment it in a brine of wine and spices. The ripened tofu is very savory and creamy, with the texture of a soft custard or brie cheese.

On first encounter, fermented tofu looks rather questionable. The cubes swimming in the jar smell pungent, and have an almost slimy texture. But just like cheese, the magic is in the bacteria that break down the soybean curd’s proteins and fats into molecules with potent flavor— rich umami, boozy, salty, and a touch of sweet— and a luscious texture that resembles a soft Camembert.

My parents always keep a jar of fermented tofu in the fridge. We’d eat it with congee— bits of it swiped up with our chopsticks— or with plain steamed buns or rice.

Varieties of fermented tofu

Regional cuisines and tastes in China have produced a large range of fermented tofu products. You’ll find varieties in small glass jars in the condiment aisle in Asian supermarkets. It’s also available online.

White fermented tofu (白腐乳, báifǔrǔ) is the basic variety— just firm tofu that’s allowed to ferment and brined with salt and rice wine.

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Red fermented tofu (南乳, nánrǔ) or red fermented tofu, is a southern version that tastes slightly funkier and sweeter, and it’s tinted a brilliant deep red color from red yeast rice (红曲米，hóngqūmī).

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Sesame oil fermented tofu (麻油腐乳, máyóu fǔrǔ) is brined with sesame oil for a nutty fragrance.

“Stinky fermented tofu” (臭腐乳, chòu fǔrǔ) is an alarming grey blueish-green color and fantastically odorous.

Chili oil fermented tofu (红油腐乳, hóngyóu fǔrǔ) is fermented with pulverized Sichuan chiles for heat.

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My favorite brand is the Wang Zhi He 王致和 brand.

How to use fermented tofu

The flavorful cubes and brine can be mashed into a smooth paste and added to simple stir-fried greens to lend luscious flavor, or eaten straight in very tiny amounts as a salty relish with plain rice congee. It’s quite salty, so a tidbit goes a long way. Fermented tofu is also delicious mashed into a dipping sauce for hot pot.

How to store fermented tofu

Fermented tofu is shelf-stable before opening, but afterwards, store the jar in the fridge.