香菇 | xiānggū

Dried shiitake mushroom

Also called Chinese black mushrooms or “winter mushrooms” (冬菇 dōnggū), dried shiitake mushrooms are an important flavoring ingredient in the Chinese pantry, treasured for their deep, earthy fragrance and rich savoriness. When rehydrated, the dried mushrooms are more intense in flavor and have a meatier, chewier texture than their fresh counterparts. They’re one of the most common dried ingredients in Chinese cooking and used in nearly every regional cuisine, typically added to stir-fries, braised dishes, or simmered in soups or stocks.

Varieties

Dried shiitake mushrooms are sold in Asian supermarkets in two varieties: the small, thick ones with a cracked pattern on their caps that resemble tortoise shells are highly prized for their flavor and called “flower mushrooms” (花菇 huāgū),  while the thinner, darker and smooth-capped mushrooms are called “fragrant mushroom” (香菇 xiānggū) and more affordable.

I’ve found that Japanese-grown and harvested shiitake mushroom brands are usually better in quality than Chinese. When you open the bag, give the mushrooms a deep whiff— the aroma should be powerful, almost overwhelming in their fragrance. If the dried mushrooms don’t smell like much, they’re probably really old or of poor quality.

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How to rehydrate dried shiitake mushrooms

• Fastest method: place the dried mushrooms in a bowl and cover with boiling hot water. Set a plate on top so the mushrooms stay submerged. This will take about 30 minutes, depending on the size and thickness of the mushrooms.
• Best method: If you’re not in a hurry, it’s best to use cool or warm water. Place in a bowl as above and cover with water, and soak for at least 3 hours. This gentler soaking process won’t leech out too much of their flavor. After soaking, the caps should be completely softened and easy to slice, without any hard, dried white bits in the center.

A trick I learned at culinary school in Guangzhou: add a pinch of salt to the soaking water! The salted water draws out moisture and allows the mushrooms to absorb and rehydrate faster. 

• After soaking: drain and squeeze the mushrooms dry. Flip the mushroom on its back and use kitchen scissors to snip off the tough stem, close to the base. Discard the stems, or collect them in a little bag in the freezer and use them for stock. 
• To cut: smack the cap with the blade of your knife to flatten it out, and cut it as designated in the recipe, into shreds, slices, or halves. If I want thin shreds, I will usually cut the thick cap into thinner halves (with the knife parallel to the cutting board) before slicing vertically.
• Don’t discard the soaking water! Strain it through a sieve to remove any grit, and use the fragrant, amber-colored liquid as a stock.

Storage

Store purchased dried mushrooms in a covered container in a dark, dry and cool place.  Dried shiitake mushrooms will keep indefinitely in the pantry.