麻酱， 芝麻酱 | má jiàng, zhī má jiàng

What is Chinese sesame paste?

Used frequently in Chinese cooking, sesame paste is ground from roasted white sesame seeds* and not quite the same as tahini. Chinese sesame paste is thicker and darker in color, with a rich, earthy flavor and nutty aroma. It resembles peanut butter in appearance and consistency. It’s rarely used as a spread, and usually mixed with other seasonings for creamy sauces and dressings for noodles or cold dishes.

• For a basic sesame sauce, combine the sesame paste with a pinch of salt (or dash of soy sauce), pale rice vinegar, finely minced garlic, and a bit of warm water. Whisk vigorously— the paste will grow lighter and creamier. Stir in some chili oil for extra flavor, and enjoy atop noodles.

Tips for purchasing

There’s usually a pretty large selection of sesame pastes at Asian supermarkets. The best contain just roasted sesame seeds; avoid ones with added sugar or oils. 

Before using sesame paste, stir the jar well, as the oil will rise to the top, leaving a drier paste at the bottom.

Zhuang Yuan (Master) brand is my favorite brand, as it has just one ingredient— sesame seeds.

How to make homemade sesame paste

In case you can’t find it, sesame paste is easy to make at home. This recipe makes about 1 cup.

• 1 ½ cup raw white sesame seeds
• 3 tablespoons toasted sesame oil 

Pour the sesame seeds into a dry wok or skillet and place over low heat. Stir continuously for about 5 to 6 minutes until the seeds start to pop and you can smell their fragrance. Continue to stir for 1 to 2 more minutes, until the popping sounds decrease and the sesame seeds are faintly golden. Pour onto a plate and let them cool just slightly— you want them to be warm, but not hot.

Add the sesame seeds to a food processor. Blend on low speed until a coarse crumb forms, then continue to blend until the seeds start to break down into a thick, oily paste. (If using a high-speed blender, use a tamper to move the seeds down into the blades.) Add the sesame oil, a drizzle at a time, and continue blending until the paste is smooth. Store in a covered jar in the refrigerator for up to 2 months. 

*Black sesame paste has a richer, more intense sesame flavor and a slight bitterness, so it’s generally paired with sugar and used for sweet bun fillings or pastries rather than in savory dishes. You can often find black sesame paste in specialty stores— Chinese people tend to spread on buns or toast or stir it with hot water for a drink.