Chinese pumpkin cakes (南瓜饼 nan gua bing)

Nan gua bing 南瓜饼, or sticky rice pumpkin cakes, are an irresistible sweet treat— fried to a crispy and crunchy exterior but soft and gooey on the inside, they often enjoyed as a street food or snack in China. Although I like the plain version, they’re often stuffed with red bean paste.

I used to beg my mom to make these for us whenever we had a pumpkin or winter squash lying around. You can use canned pumpkin puree, but I highly recommend making your own— it doesn’t take long to cook, especially if you have a pressure cooker, and the improved flavor and texture is well worth the effort.

Ingredients

Traditionally, making this sweet treat only requires four ingredients. It’s also completely vegan and gluten-free.

You will need:

• A bag of glutinous rice flour (also called mochiko flour or sweet rice flour)
• 1 small pumpkin or winter squash
• Granulated cane sugar or brown sugar
• Toasted sesame seeds, optional

Optional filling: red bean paste, for a sweet center

These pumpkin cakes aren’t very sweet, instead showcasing the natural sweetness of the squash. You may adjust the sugar amount to preference, or serve the cakes with a sugar on the side to dip.

There are two ways of cooking the cakes: deep-frying or pan-frying. Deep-frying is the traditional method, which results in a better texture (crisper on the outside), but they’re equally delicious pan-fried.

Instructions

Step 1: Make the squash puree.

Cook the squash or pumpkin first using one of the following methods:

Steaming method: Peel the squash and remove seeds and core, then cut into thin ½-inch slices (the thinner the slices, the faster they’ll cook). In a pot with a steamer rack, bring 2 inches of water to a boil, then place pumpkin in a plate on the rack and steam for 10 minutes or until the flesh can be pierced through with a fork.

Microwave method: Peel the squash and remove seeds and core, then cut into thin ½-inch slices (the thinner the slices, the faster they’ll cook). Place in a microwave-safe plate and cover tightly with plastic wrap. Microwave on high for 7-8 minutes, or until the flesh can be pierced through with a fork.

Electric pressure cooker method: Cut the squash in half. Place on the circular steamer rack with at least 2 inches of water underneath, and set for 10 minutes on Manual, with natural release. Using a spoon, remove the seeds, then scrape out the cooked flesh— the peel should separate easily.

Drain any excess water from the peeled squash. Mash with a fork or blend in a food processor until smooth. Add sugar and taste, adjusting for desired sweetness. 

Step 2: Make the Dough.

Add the rice flour in increments, until the mixture forms a putty-like dough that forms a ball when you squeeze it together in your palm. The amount of rice flour will vary based on the water content of your squash; add more if the dough is too wet or sticky.

Step 3: Shape the Cakes.

Divide the dough into portions about 40 grams, or the size of a small golf ball, and roll into balls about 1-inch in diameter. Flatten each ball into a disc with a ½-inch thickness. For red bean stuffed cakes, prepare 30g balls of red bean paste. Make an indentation in the middle of the dough, add a ball of red bean paste, draw up the sides to enclose the filling, and form into a ball, then flatten.

If using sesame seeds, prepare a plate with the seeds. Dip both sides of the cake, pressing gently until the seeds are adhered onto the surface.

Step 4: Fry the cakes.

Method 1: Deep-fry

This is the fastest method and will result in the crispiest exterior.

Heat about 2 cups of neutral tasting, heat-resistant oil (like vegetable or grapesed oil) in a deep pot or wok. When bubbles form around an inserted chopstick, around 320°F/160°C, slide the cakes carefully into the hot oil and fry to a golden brown, flipping occasionally, until both sides are crispy and golden brown, about 3 minutes. Transfer to a paper towel to drain.

Method 2: Pan-fry

This method uses less oil.

Heat about ¼ cup of neutral tasting, heat-resistant oil (like vegetable or grapesed oil) in a non-stick or seasoned cast iron pan. Frying in batches, place the cakes in a single layer over medium heat and cook until the bottom is golden brown, then flip and repeat.

Serving and Storage

Since these cakes are a form of mochi, made with glutinous rice flour, they are best served immediately, while hot or warm. Once they cool, the mochi tends to harden, losing its soft stickiness.

To store, place in an airtight container and refrigerate for up to 5 days. To reheat, place the cakes in a single layer on a non-stick pan. Cook over medium-low heat, flipping once, until the center is heated through and the edges are crispy, about 2 minutes each side. Or, place on a baking sheet and bake in the oven at 350°F for 3-4 minutes.

To freeze, place in a ziptop bag and freeze for up to 3 months. You can reheat these from frozen without thawing: place in a non-stick pan. Cover and cook over medium-low heat until one side is sizzling. Uncover, flip and repeat until the centers are heated through and soft and both edges are crispy, about 5 minutes each side. To bake, place on a sheet pan and reheat in the oven at 350°F for 8-10 minutes.

Tips

• Use any orange-fleshed winter squash like kabocha squash, red kuri squash, or a small sugar pumpkin, which has sweeter, denser flesh than larger pumpkins— those tend to be stringy and watery.
• You can serve the cakes dipped in sugar, or sprinkle it on after frying. I served these with a ginger brown sugar syrup.

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